How to Design a Home Accessible for all Occupants

Here are some ways in which a home can be designed or remodeled to make the home accessible for independent living.

Entry and Access:

For accessibility and ease of use, at least one entrance per home should have:

A covered entryway.

Low (less than 1/2") or no threshold.

• Wide doors - at least 32 " (36" is better).

• Swing away hinges to allow wider access.

• Lever sets or D-handle loops rather than knobs for those with limited hand strength.

• Easy to reach and operate interior lock (no small buttons to manipulate).

• Garage and entrance at the same level. Make sure the site drainage is considered.

• Peep hole at lower level (you can even have two).

• Adequate lighting.

• Non-slip surfaces on steps or ramp.

• Curb cuts or ramps at driveway.

• Avoid sidewalk drop-offs.

• No drainage grates.

• Package shelf at front entrance; for holding items while opening the door.

• Highly visible street number and doorbell.

• Extra lighting.

• Ramps should have:

• a 1:20 rise and run for exterior;  1:12 for interior.

• Landing of at least 48" x 48". (60 x 60" is best to allow turnaround space).

• 36" - 48" width.

• Anti-slip surface.

• Handrails on both sides.

• Soil fill to eliminate drop-off and enhance appearance.

Kitchen :

Follow these tips to improve your kitchen:

Cabinets and Countertops:

• Build counter tops at varying heights for different tasks. Lower levels allow the ability to sit while preparing and cooking meals. The best height is 28" - 32." The usable counter space for a seated person is about 16".

• Create pullout work surfaces such as counters, breadboards and cutting boards for access from a chair. Drawers with fully extendable glides are easier to get into.

• Build or install the wall cabinets closer to the countertop.

• Make bigger, deeper toe kicks and knee spaces under counters.

• Install lazy susan's and pullout shelves.

• Install D—shaped loop handles on cabinet doors and drawers.

• Reduce glare by using low gloss finishes.

• Use contrasting colors to enhance visibility for those with reduced vision.

Plumbing:

• Install a sink with a shallow (5" - 6" deep) basin for easy reach. By using a tub-bend pipe, the drain can be moved closer to the rear of the undercounter area to provide knee room.

• Install the sink closer to the front of the counter. A removable "faux" counter face under the sink allows the area to be quickly converted to accommodate the user.

• Use a lever- or loop-handled kitchen faucet. Choose faucets with pull out or push-button sprayer controls.

• Prevent scalding by installing faucets with temperature controls. Insulate hot water pipes under the sink.

Appliances:

• Shop for a side-by-side refrigerator and cook top with front-mounted controls.

• Place microwave or wall oven 31" from the floor.

• Install dishwasher 6" to 8" above floor level and make it accessible from the right or left sides.

• Place outlets no lower than 15" off the floor.

• Switches and thermostats should be 48" above the floor.

Also keep in mind that all rooms need:

• Five square feet of open area to allow a wheelchair user to make a 360 degree turnaround.

• Low-pile carpeting or non-slip flooring.

• Doors at least 32" wide (36" is better).

• Swing away hinges on doors to allow full use of the entire door frame width.

Bathroom:

Toilet:

• Locate toilets 18" from side walls, both for freedom of access from chair or walker and/or to allow room for grab bars.

• Use an offset flange to move the toilet forward up to 3" without having to relocate the waste pipe.

• Choose a toilet with an easy-to-use flush handle and an extended seat. Add reinforcement for bars (now or later) in the wall.

• Add wood blocking or solid plywood backing behind the surface wall. The wood provides the support necessary to support the weight of an adult.

Lavatory and Vanity:

• Provide knee space for seated users. To allow access, an open roll-under vanity needs to be 34" high from the countertop to the floor and 29" from the bottom of the sink to the floor.

• A vanity or wall-hung sink needs to have at least a 17" depth to allow space for knees.

• Place the sink as close as possible to the front of a vanity cabinet to allow the user easier reach to the sink basin and faucet.

• Removable cabinet allows conversion from regular vanity to an accessible lavatory. Simply mount the sink to the reinforced wall. Add a vanity case below that can be easily removed when needed.

• Install lever handle faucets.

• Exposed hot water pipes should be insulated and/or covered.

Bathtub:

• Shower door tracks restrict movement in and out of the tub. Replace with a trackless door system.

• Provide 30" of open floor space in front of the tub when approaching from the end (head) and 48" if the tub is approached straight-on (side).

• Use lever handle (preferably single lever) faucets rather than hard to handle knobs.

• Locate water control near the entry to the allow bather to turn on water while outside the tub.

Roll-in shower for easy access.

Shower:

• Shower dimension should be 36" x 36" with seat; 30" x 60" without a seat.

• Locate water control near the entry to allow the bather to turn on water while outside the tub.

• Curbless or roll-in showers are available for those who are unable to move from a wheelchair.

Grab Bars:

• Install grab bars instead of towel bars. Diameters should be 1-1/4" - 1-1/2".

• Leave a space between the grab bar and wall of 1-1/2". An opening that is too wide could allow a hand to get stuck and in effect, trap the user.

• Look for replacement surrounds with built-in reinforced panels capable of accepting grab bars.

Other:

• Install full-length mirrors or regular mirrors mounted lower.

• All water supplies should have anti-scald temperature controls.

Many other Universal Design principals apply in the bath as well as the rest of the home:

• Thresholds should be no higher than 1/2". No threshold is best.

• Extra lighting and color contrast increase visibility.

• Doorways with a width of 32" minimum, although 36" is best.

• Swing-away hinges allow full use of door frame.

• Easy to grasp cabinet hardware and door handles fit all hands.

• Room to turn a wheelchair - (5' x 5')

• Nonskid floors

Lighting:

We need more light when we reach age 40 than we did at age 20. Studies indicate up to three times more — but it's not as simple as switching from a 100 watt to a 150 watt bulb. What we really need is quality, not quantity.

The pupil is the opening in the eye that controls the amount of light that enters the eye. As humans get older, the pupil gets smaller. Simply providing brighter light is not the answer because the change also makes us more sensitive to glare and shadows. Combine that with the reduction in peripheral vision and what for some is a quality of life issue becomes a concern for safety and security.

Okay, So What Can I Do?

It's not necessary to completely redesign the home's lighting scheme. However a lot of new construction now contains lighting and design elements that allow easy transition through the life stages of the occupants. The goals are:

• Consistency — Balanced even light throughout the room. Even light promotes:

• Reduced glare — Direct glare (as from a light bulb) and reflected glare (from shiny surfaces) are eliminated.

• Decreasedshadows — Especially when moving between rooms. A drastic transition from light to dark or dark to light can be extremely awkward for those with reduced vision.

• Flexibility — Lighting can be added or adjusted when brighter light is needed.

• Focus — Light is directed to the areas that need it most.

• Security — Well lit stairways, handrails, hallways and entryways provide safety and a sense of well being.

Tubular lights are fairly simple to install and provide a great source of natural lighting.

The following ideas and solutions would prove useful as well as stylish in practically any application:

• Overhead lighting is normally provided by incandescent or fluorescent bulbs. Upgrade or supplement overhead lighting with additional sources.

• Recessed lights can be placed in the exact spots where additional illumination is needed.

 

• Track lights provide overhead light and allow light to be focused where it's needed.

• Under-cabinet lights are a very inconspicuous source of kitchen illumination.

• Task lights supplement overhead indirect lighting when additional light is needed for hobbies, reading, or other concentrated projects. Lamps are the most logical source of task lighting. Place them on one or both sides of the task. Reduce glare by having the shade below eye level.

• Wall fixtures, such as sconces, help light stairways and hallways. Side lights by the bathroom mirror reduce shadows.

• Skylights and tubular lights provide natural light.

Turning It On:

Bulbs: The three main types of light source are incandescent, halogen, and fluorescent.

• Incandescent is the most common. Inexpensive and shorter-lived than halogen and fluorescent,they are regularly used for overhead lighting and lamps.

• Halogen lights make great task lighting, plus they are energy efficient.

• Fluorescent bulbs are available in either tubes or compact. Both are efficient and inexpensive to operate. Compact florescent bulbs are designed to fit conventional incandescent sockets.

Switches:

• Rocker or toggle switches are easily controlled by those who may have limited hand strength or dexterity.

• Dimmer switches with knob or touch sensitive controls allow adjustable light levels. Mount switches 36-48 inches from the floor for easy reach.

It's Not All Electrical:

Skylights have already been mentioned, but contrast is an essential concept. Depending on the background or base color, add contrast by using lighter or darker colors on:

• Cabinet hardware and drawer pulls.

• Pillows and bathmats.

 

• Glasses, dinnerware, kitchen utensils and trashcans.

• Molding and doors.

Storage and Organization:

• Adapt cabinetry, shelves and doors to right- and left-handed users.

• Make the areas easily visible within any line of sight.

• Construct the components to be accessible from a seated or standing position.

• Keep the elements simple. Everyone should find them easy to open and reach across with minimal effort.

• Accommodate differences in hand size and grip strength.

Placement :

To avoid the need for bending over or extensive reaching, the optimal space for easy access is no lower than 27" and no higher than 48" from the floor. This includes the placement of electrical outlets and light switches.

 

Closets:

Place clothing rods and shelves at eye level for easy viewing and access by wheelchair. By using adjustable-height closet components, you can change the configuration as needed. The best measurements are from 3' to 5'5" high. Use lever-style or d-shaped door handles for easy opening.
Adjustable shelving changes as your needs change.	A lazy Susan maximizes corner space and accessibility.

Cabinets:

Incorporate easy-to-handle cabinet hardware. Handles that are d-shaped are easier for users with limited hand strength. For pantries, full-length shelves allow access for wheelchair users and maximize your storage space. Lazy Susan's in corner cabinets will also make the best use of available storage area and allow simpler access to items. Use pullout shelves wherever possible.

 

Some of these recommendations may require major renovations. Make sure you locate water and power lines inside the walls before cutting. Also be sure to identify load-bearing walls.

 

This article was taken from www.lowes.com website. This information is under the “How to” section. Universal Design is the designer of many of the products suggested in this article.